The Chagras: Guardians of Ecuador’s Highlands

Ecuador 2025

Deep in the heart of Ecuador’s Andean páramo, the Chagras stand as living symbols of resilience, tradition, and an unbreakable bond with the land. These skilled horsemen, often compared to cowboys, have roamed the highlands for centuries, herding cattle across vast, misty landscapes. Their roots trace back to indigenous Andean communities, blending with Spanish equestrian traditions to create a unique way of life that embodies both strength and grace. Clad in thick woolen ponchos and wide-brimmed hats, Chagras endure the harsh, unpredictable weather of the highlands, relying on their deep understanding of the terrain, the animals, and the rhythms of nature. Their culture is rich with music, storytelling, and an unwavering respect for the land—a legacy passed down through generations.

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I had the opportunity of a lifetime to witness this incredible culture firsthand during a photography retreat led by the talented María Emilia Moncayo. Her passion for horse photography brought new depth to the experience, as she shared not only technical pointers but also her love for the spirit and movement of these animals. Capturing the Chagras in action was both exhilarating and humbling, as I quickly learned that photographing moving subjects is a challenge far different from still landscapes. I am incredibly grateful to Hacienda Yanahurco for their hospitality, for opening their doors to us, and for allowing us to immerse ourselves in the true essence of the páramo. This experience deepened my appreciation for the Chagras—not just as skilled horsemen, but as the heart and soul of Ecuador’s highlands.